Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Santa Cruz Ca. Nocal...My new adventure...The ocean and surfing...

so, last time I left on a bittersweet note.im NOT going to do that this time......despite it being very cathartic(my word of the day-thanks J.C.) for me, it was good to get it out, but now Im going to talk about something thats very passionate(because I just ooze passion) to me at this particular moment.........The Ocean ie. Santa Cruz, surfing, the sand, the sounds, the water....ive ALWAYS loved the ocean...ever since I was a little tike, there was just something about it...its hard to pinpoint when exactly, but i sincerely-from the bottom of my heart LOVE the ocean!!! One of the 1st memories I do have of wanting to surf however is from the Movie "North Shore"...I believe it came out in the late 80's and me and my dad would watch that movie all the time(my dad still to do this day has a sick infatuation of Hawaii, and keeps saying hes moving there, when he retires-we'll see-my moms to white to move to Hawaii) well, i fell in love with the surfing part, and wanted to try/do it since that time. after a couple of times "boogyboarding in my teens/early 20's I still had never tried surfing, for whatever reason. well, going back to the hospital stay...this was another thing I had decided to do.(remember im living life the way I want to live it now!!!!)....I did try it a couple of times, before Feb 12th 2008 in Santa Cruz Ca, but to be completely honest I could barely get on the fucking board........Reason=FAT, PIGGY, DISGUSTING, JENNY CRAIGISH...I was a mess!!! I'm still by no means, skinny(or like a little vietnamese friend I have-we'll call him "packer"-no D.C hes not 10) but im going to get there, and NOW since FEB 12th, I can get on the board and yes I can shred now!!!..with that said im NO Kelly Slater or Rick Cane, but its VERY cathartic for me to just be in that ocean, theres is NO feeling like it.....!!! I can have a million things on my mind right before I get into the city limits and as soon as I get in that ocean..they all go away!!!! I dont think about diabetes, I dont think about who im going to start this week because Calvin Johnson is on Bye, I dont think what bill I have to pay at the end of the week.........All I think about is how fucking cold this water is!!!! but that im in it(the ocean) and theres NOT a place in the world Id rather be......well theres ONE, but Ill leave that open to interpertation...and when you get up on that wave and I now can ride it for about 30-secs-a minute...its soooooo gratifying, ive made some goals since FEB 12th , and thats once Ive put a check next to...!!!! Santa Cruz- I fell in love with this town the 1st time, i ever stepped in it.....I have a routine....I get there the same hotel...I step put of the car, I smell the ocean air...I get my room, I leave my baggage in the room(literally and figuratively)I take a walk down to steamers, set my feet in the ocean, and its on from there..I then walk back towards the room, i stop by the same restaurant for a cocktail-usually a newcastle or a bacardi and diet coke, strike up a convo with a local, finish my drink, walk right across the street to the liquor store, get my Kona 6 pack...stop by the taco stand...get my taco and burrito...get to the room, turn on espn, eat my food, drink my Kona...chill...then on to downtown for the Santa Cruz nightlife which usually goes like this, ...stop by a local pub, get a buzz on.....go to PIZZA MY HEART, have a slice, then its on the shoreline poker room, where I find myself either winning the trip back(which costs ALOT these days with gas prices) or losing enough to where it discourages me from going to the O'neill surf shop the next afternoon and spending some cash......Then, its back to the room for a nightcap, in which either I get good sleep, or none at all......because this would mean NOTHING without getting in that OCEAN, at sunrise....remember thats why I GO!!!!! if this interests you ,you can go to www.joshssantacruztripeveryoneshouldexpierenceit.com until next time......be good.....

a couple of good ocean/surfing quotes

" Ill Ride the wave where it takes me"-Pearl Jam-"Release"-"Ten"


"No matter how BIG you ever become...always remember the OCEAN will always be BIGGER" "Poetic Justice".........yes ive watched the film.....



I have a tale to tell
Sometimes it gets so hard to hide it well
I was not ready for the fall
Too blind to see the writing on the wall


Madonna-"Live to Tell"-The Immaculate Collection

so, this, next to "Crazy for You" is my favorite Madonna song!! I was just listening to it, and thought "you know what", this a damn good lyric. It does remind me of the previous post, but this song reminds me of when Madonna was (to use 80's lingo) FRESH. She was innocent at a time, and this was that time, she did this song for her then husbands movie(Sean Penn-and the movie was At Close Range ) Also, I lived to tell a different story......im WRITING again!!! and its so very endearing to me...not only am I writing my thoughts and feelings on this blog, but ive got a creative kick again, and have continued "20 Dollar bill" hopefully a film that you will all see in theaters 2011............its a good story ive created with some new dialogue that i HOPE will be good enough to at least get looked at......!!!!

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